Ardent Enthusiasts

“The third stage, above the barracks, consisted of warehouses, bakeries, kitchens, and other residential rooms. The view from this stage is magnificent, but the way to it should only be attempted by the most ardent enthusiasts”

Nancy Hatch Dupree [describing the climb to the top of Shar-i-Zohak, the ruins of a castle destroyed by Genghis Khan, at the entrance to the Bamiyan Valley] – An Historical Guide to Afghanistan  (1977)

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August 2006

In Bamiyan Paul Clammer and I hired a 4WD Toyota for the three-day drive to Chaghcharan. Our Hazara driver refused to take us beyond that city as  it was too dangerous for him…

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