Monthly Archives: January 2014

An abridged version of this a post first appeared on Atlas Obscura             I first visited Herat in the summer of 1972, after taking four locals buses from Mashhad, Iran to the Afghan border at Islam Qala, and one more minibus into the city. I had just spent nearly two weeks traveling overland from Europe through the intense desert heat. The dry, earthy smell I always associated with Afghanistan – dried human… Read More

The Tallest Natural Arch in the World Note: An abridged version of this post appears on Atlas Obscura.             Eric Shipton (1907-1977), the famed British mountaineer, was well-known for a quip he once made with his climbing partner, Bill Tilman, that they could “organise a Himalayan expedition in half an hour on the back of an envelope.” In 1947, when he was the British consul in Kashgar, he used… Read More