THE ARDENT ENTHUSIAST

Tikse Monastary, Ladakh, September 2013 This normally popular monastery was deserted the day I visited, as there was a big festival at Hemis Monastery and all the monks were there.

“The third stage, above the barracks, consisted of warehouses, bakeries, kitchens, and other residential rooms. The view from this stage is magnificent, but the way to it should only be attempted...

The author at Ahmad Shah Massoud’s tomb in the Panjshir Valley – ┬áSeptember 2012

The Minaret of Jam The Central Route through Afghanistan from Kabul to Herat was the Holy Grail of travel adventures. In 2006 I traveled with Paul Clammer when he was writing...

July 1972, I was standing on University Avenue in Berkeley with my thumb out, and a cardboard sign in my hand reading: AFGHANISTAN It took a week to hitch to New...