Buddha’s Gaze


Tikse Monastary, Ladakh, September 2013

This normally popular monastery was deserted the day I visited, as there was a big festival at Hemis Monastery and all the monks were there.

Ardent Enthusiasts

“The third stage, above the barracks, consisted of warehouses, bakeries, kitchens, and other residential rooms. The view from this stage is magnificent, but the way to it should only be attempted by the most ardent enthusiasts”

Nancy Hatch Dupree [describing the climb to the top of Shar-i-Zohak, the ruins of a castle destroyed by Genghis Khan, at the entrance to the Bamiyan Valley] – An Historical Guide to Afghanistan  (1977)


August 2006

In Bamiyan Paul Clammer and I hired a 4WD Toyota for the three-day drive to Chaghcharan. Our Hazara driver refused to take us beyond that city as  it was too dangerous for him…


Ahmed Shah Massoud’s Tomb

The author at Ahmad Shah Massoud’s tomb in the Panjshir Valley –  September 2012

Minaret of Jam

The Minaret of Jam

The Central Route through Afghanistan from Kabul to Herat was the Holy Grail of travel adventures. In 2006 I traveled with Paul Clammer when he was writing the Lonely Planet Guidebook to Afghanistan. One of my photographs of the Minaret of Jam appears in that book.