THE ARDENT ENTHUSIAST

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This was originally published on BootsnAll Travel Journal #4 THE TRIPLEGEM AFGHAN EXPEDITION-SUMMER 2005 12/August/2005 – Kabul, Afghanistan Friday – the Islamic day of rest – I had breakfast at the Mustafa, naan, omelet, hash browns and coffee. Breakfast at the Mustafa was eaten in an open, marble-paved courtyard on the second floor. This was where we’d had the barbecue the night before. There I ran into another tourist. He was an Aussie named Peter… Read More

11/August/2005 – Peshawar to Kabul I awoke early, had my usual Paki breakfast then went down to the Rose Hotel office to meet Prince. It was a small taxi that drove around to the Khyber Agency office to pick-up the armed guard. While waiting for the guard I watch some small boys herding goats…in downtown Peshawar…then we were off to Torkham. It was a bit hazy, but it felt great to be… Read More

(This article was originally published in Kyoto Journal Volume 82) Minaret of Jam – KJ82 Does the fate threatening the Minaret of Jam mirror the imminent fate of Afghanistan? “At a corner between cliffs, the minaret was there, straight and tapering as a candle or a beautifully rolled umbrella, etched from top to bottom with patterns, ribands and bands and medallions, cut in the hard-baked brick whose biscuit colour showed light against… Read More

This Lakhai Uzbek suwari [Shield]  is one of the best pieces in my collection. I bought it in Kabul, Afghanistan from Abdul Noor-Sher in 1974 and I’ve had it on display ever since. When I first lived in Kabul, in 1972, Thomas Knorr, an expert on Central Asian textiles, lived across the street from me. He moved back to Germany in 1973 and held a museum exhibition later that year with a… Read More

This was originally published on Bootsnall Travel Journal #1 THE TRIPLEGEM AFGHAN EXPEDITION-SUMMER 2005 5-7/Aug/2005 – Peshawar, Pakistan I flew into Lahore from Bangkok late on the night of the 5th, it was raining – hot muggy rain. I stayed at the notorious Regal Internet Hotel. It reminded me of the Paragon Hotel in Calcutta; freaks on the roof – Japanese, Scotch, German, – and dorm-style accommodations. I slept on a mattress on the floor in… Read More