THE ARDENT ENTHUSIAST

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This Lakhai Uzbek suwari [Shield]  is one of the best pieces in my collection. I bought it in Kabul, Afghanistan from Abdul Noor-Sher in 1974 and I’ve had it on display ever since. When I first lived in Kabul, in 1972, Thomas Knorr, an expert on Central Asian textiles, lived across the street from me. He moved back to Germany in 1973 and held a museum exhibition later that year with a… Read More

This was originally published on BootsnAll Travel Journal #2 THE TRIPLEGEM AFGHAN EXPEDITION-SUMMER 2005 8/Aug/ 2005 – Peshawar, Pakistan I was at the Afghan Consulate when it opened at 9:30, but they only take visa applications on Tuesdays and Thursdays. To get it you need 1 photo; a photocopy of the main information pages of your passport; and $30 US cash. I had everything ready for the next day. I stopped at a cyber-cafe but… Read More

This was originally published on Bootsnall Travel Journal #1 THE TRIPLEGEM AFGHAN EXPEDITION-SUMMER 2005 5-7/Aug/2005 – Peshawar, Pakistan I flew into Lahore from Bangkok late on the night of the 5th, it was raining – hot muggy rain. I stayed at the notorious Regal Internet Hotel. It reminded me of the Paragon Hotel in Calcutta; freaks on the roof – Japanese, Scotch, German, – and dorm-style accommodations. I slept on a mattress on the floor in… Read More

Peshawar -پشاور When I was on my way to Afghanistan in 2005 I stopped in Peshawar for a few weeks to get my visa and see my old friend Attaullah, who still lived there as an Afghan refugee. One afternoon he took me on a stroll through one of the oldest neighborhoods in the old city. Beautiful hand carved woodwork evoked ghostly images of the British Raj. It was an area seldom visited… Read More

Here are three more pieces of Kohistani embroidery from my collection. The square piece I bought in Kabul in 1974 and it was probably used to cover flat bread and keep the flies off. The other two pieces were originally a single pillow cover. I found them in a bazaar in the Swat Valley in 1983. I have no idea of their exact ages, but they were old when I found them. My best guess would… Read More