I returned to Kathmandu for the usual Losar party and gathering of expats, but this year it was more subdued than usual. It was my first time back since the earthquake, so the devastation was quite traumatic. The most shocking moment I had was when I first saw the Great Stupa of Boudhanath. I used to live near the stupa so it was a shock to see that the entire top  had… Read More

September 2015 This day would be our last in the Gobi Desert, as our goal was the ancient capital of Kharkhorin (Karakorum). First established in the 13th century by Chinggis Khaan, it become the capital of the Mongol Empire under Chinggis’ son, Ögedei. Alas, it only lasted for 40 years, until Kublai Khan moved his capital to Khanbalik , now referred to as Beijing. Our last views of the Gobi included a… Read More

September 2015 It was a long day of driving through the flat, gravely landscape, but it was worth it when we finally rolled up to the fabled ruins of Ongiin Khiid in the late afternoon. This complex is actually two monasteries across the river from each other. The one we explored was called Bari Lam Khiid  and dates from 1810. READ MORE…

September 2015 We spent 10 days in the Gobi Desert, driving around in a 4WD Mitsubishi, rather than one of the ubiquitous, and quite uncomfortable, Russian vans. Through Stepperiders we were able to travel with Hishka and Abbo, our Mongolian driver and guide. We rendezvoused at the Ger Camp and started our drive after lunch. Within a very short time we had left the cracked asphalt and were not to see a paved road again until the… Read More

August-September 2015 Since a long horse trek in the Zavkhan was out, I chose to go with Stepperiders, a Mongolian owned horse trekking outfit. They have a beautiful Ger Camp outside of UB and own over 300 horses. If you want to buy a horse and gear and trek solo, they are the people to go to. For me, though, I found their trek a bit too tame. I guess I was… Read More